Episode 7: Lake Tekapo, Twizel

We said goodbye to our three new whale friends and headed down to Christchurch to spend the night on our way to Queenstown. If it weren’t for the kindness of a few crazy friendly older ladies, we’d probably still be stuck in a place called Dommet, a town in between the two, population: 12, from the looks of it. This was not our fault. There is no way that we could have guessed that not a single gas station on the east coast of New Zealand would be open. I don’t care if it was the day after Christmas.

So needle on E, passing closed gas station after closed gas station, we spotted a fading backpackers sign and decided to pull in and ask if they knew of a miracle station within the next few miles. We almost didn’t go in- the place didn’t exactly look like an established hostel, more like somebody’s house, and if we’d seen the preview for that new Hostel movie, we’d have probably taken our chances with E (and ended up stranded gassless on a curve, watching our car get smashed to pieces).

Good thing we decided to poke around the back. The three white haired ladies didn’t look at all surprised to see us, and before asking us why we were there invited us to sit down to some steaks, salad, and beer. Gramma tells us they were just sitting down to their “ginnies,” and to have a seat. Not wanting to impose, we say “oh, that’s really nice, actually we were just wondering if you know of a nearby gas station that might be open..?” They laughed at us. A lot. “You must be f***ing joking.” “Er…um…no, actually…” “Where did you want to go?” “Christchurch?” “Oh you MUST be f***ing joking. Sit down and eat.” (It’s so great when cute old ladies swear.)

Anyway, they had enough gas at the house to fill half a tank, which the manliest of the three ran out and did without letting us move from our chairs, while we snacked on home grown olives. She told us that we wouldn’t have made it up the next hill let alone to the next town on what was left in that tank. A bunch of funny conversations and about a bucket of olives later, we were on our way. Just one of many examples of the tremendous hospitality of New Zealanders.

Church of the Good Shepherd on Lake Tekapo.

Lake Tekapo was the location of perhaps the best meal of the trip: tomato and garlic hummus on warm crusty bread with cucumbers and cheese half gooed from being in the hot car. Mmmmmmmmm……

Stunning. My Lord of the Rings location guidebook (...um, not that I bought a Lord of the Rings location guidebook...what kind of dork would that make me?) tells me that the milky turquoise color is derived from glacial rock suspended in the water. Neat. After Tekapo we stopped at Lake Pukaki. I don't have a picture, I just wanted to say Pukaki.

New Zealand's tallest peak- view of Mt. Cook from the road.

Next stop was a gorgeous B&B in Twizel, owned by friends of our kiwi friend Ben who also works in Fukui. Twizel, as i'm sure most of you know, was the filming location of the Battle of the Pelennor Fields at Ered Nimrais. (No?)

You can't tell from the picture, but that's Mt. Cook smack in front of our private porch attached to our classy room. The place was swarming with sheep when we got there. It was tough not to settle in and stay there all week. Especially after we woke up to a giant bacon and omelette and tea and toast breakfast.

It sure beats hostels.